How to Choose Barefoot Shoes: A Practical Guide to Natural Footwear

Cut through the marketing. Use the 5 Fs to choose footwear that lets your feet do their job.

I’m Andy Bryant — TFC Pro Educator and a podiatrist with a passion for helping people get the most out of their natural foot function.

At The Foot Collective, we see confusion every day around what makes a good shoe.

If you’ve spent any time learning about foot health, you’ve probably heard the term “barefoot shoes.”

It’s exciting to see this barefoot shoe industry growing rapidly, but walk into any store or scroll online and you’ll find dozens of brands calling their shoes “minimalist,” “natural,” or even “podiatrist-approved.”

Unfortunately, many of these shoes still restrict how your feet move and function.

That’s why we created a simple framework to help you cut through the marketing noise and clearly understand what to look for when choosing natural footwear.

👣 THE 5 FS (YOUR QUICK CHECKLIST)

1. Foot-shaped — wide toe box matches human anatomy
2. Fixed — secured to your foot (no toe-clawing)
3. Flat — zero drop from heel to toe
4. Flexible — bends and twists naturally
5. Feel — ground feel for balance and control

UNDERSTANDING THE FOOTWEAR CONTINUUM

Before diving into the details of the 5 Fs of natural footwear, it’s important to understand that all footwear exists on a sliding scale.

At one end of the continuum, you have very unnatural footwear - like high heels or narrow, pointy dress shoes. At the other end, you have no shoes at all: true barefoot.

Everything else sits somewhere in between.

The goal isn’t to leap straight to the most minimal option overnight. Instead, use the 5 Fs as your guide, and with each new purchase, aim to choose a shoe that moves you closer to barefoot than what you’re wearing now.

Taking this continuum approach makes the transition more gradual, comfortable, and sustainable for most people.

HOW TO CHOOSE NATURAL FOOTWEAR USING THE 5 F’S

1. FOOT-SHAPED – FOLLOWS NATURAL FOOT ANATOMY

Many shoes are designed to fit fashion, not human anatomy.

A natural shoe shape follows the true outline of the foot, with a wide toe box that allows your toes to move and spread for balance and stability.

Narrow shoes that taper inward contribute to bunions, hammertoes, and reduced power in walking and running.

We’re seeing many brands claim their shoe has a “wide toe box.”

The widest point of the shoe might be at the ball of the foot, but if it narrows at the toes, it is not a true wide toe box.

A big part of this confusion comes from how feet are traditionally measured. The Brannock device (the tool most shoe stores use) measures width at the ball of the foot - not at the toes, where a natural foot is actually widest. This outdated standard explains why so many “wide” shoes still squeeze your toes.

WHAT DEFINES A TRUE WIDE TOE BOX IS WHERE THE SHOE IS WIDEST:

✅ Widest at the tips of the toes — from the big toe to the little toe.

❌ Not just wide at the ball of the foot, while tapering back in.

Why it matters: The widest point of your foot should be at the toes. This is essential for our big toes to be allowed to be straight which helps with balance and full natural foot function

If the shoe tapers at the front, the toes are still being pushed together and function is compromised — even if the sole looks wide from above.

2. FIXED – SECURE ATTACHMENT TO YOUR FOOT

Natural footwear should feel secure without compressing or distorting your foot. When your footwear is properly fixed to your foot, your foot can function as it naturally would, without your toes having to claw to keep the sole in contact or your whole leg to externally rotate to hold shoes on.

Why it matters: This means sandals with heel straps are in, and flip-flops are out. Too tight restricts function; too loose can create instability, overuse and poor walking patterns

3. FLAT – ZERO DROP FROM HEEL TO TOE

A true barefoot shoe has zero drop from heel to toe.

“Zero drop” means the shoe has no height difference between the heel and the forefoot, keeping your foot flat and aligned as if you were barefoot - which keeps posture and alignment natural. Most conventional shoes - even casual trainers - sneak in a raised heel, which shifts weight forward and can change stress on the knees, hips, and spine.

Why it matters: An elevated heel restricts ankle range of motion, disrupts whole-body positioning, and creates unbalanced weight distribution at the foot.

⚠️ WATCH OUT FOR TOE SPRING

One feature that disqualifies many shoes from being flat is toe spring - when the front of the shoe curves upward, lifting your toes off the ground even when you're standing.

Why toe spring is problematic:

• Places your toes in an unnatural extended position
• Impacts the toes ability to function properly for balance and propulsion
• Places constant strain on the plantar fascia
• Can weaken the muscles that should be working to press down and lift your toes

A truly natural shoe keeps your toes in contact with the sole and therefore the ground, allowing them to push off powerfully during movement.

4. FLEXIBLE – BENDS AND TWISTS NATURALLY

Your foot has 33 joints designed to bend, twist, and adapt to the ground. If your shoe is stiff, those joints move less and the muscles that stabilize your feet can weaken. A natural shoe should bend easily in your hands—both lengthwise and side to side.

Why it matters: A rigid shoe restricts movement in the foot, which can result in weaker muscles and stiffer joints over time.

5. FEEL – THIN SOLE FOR GROUND FEEL

Have you heard of proprioception? Thick cushioning mutes the sensory feedback your feet send to your brain. Without this "ground feel," balance, coordination, and movement control all suffer. A thinner sole allows you to feel and have your whole body respond to your environment, making the most of the sensor that is our feet.

Why it matters: With up to 200,000 nerve endings in each foot, sensory feedback is crucial for adapting movement patterns to different surfaces.

🚨 THE NON-NEGOTIABLES

Two of these features are immediate upgrades that do not require a transition period:

• Foot-shaped → Your toes must have space to spread and function , for your big toe to have the ability to be straight and with the widest point of the shoe being at the tip.
• Fixed → The shoe should hold your foot comfortably without compressing it or not being fixed to your feet

There is no benefit to continuing with narrow, tapered, or poorly fitted shoes! These are two changes everyone can make right now.

The other three - Flat, Flexible, Feel - are important, but can require a more gradual transition, since they increase the load your feet and body must adapt to.

HOW TO TEST SHOES USING THE 5FS

1. FOOT-SHAPED TEST

• Place your foot on a piece of paper and trace around it
• Compare this outline to the shoe's inner sole
• Your toe outline should fit comfortably inside the shoe's inner sole outline

2. FIXED TEST

When you walk, your toes shouldn’t have to grip to keep the shoe on. If they do, it’s not truly fixed.

3. FLAT - ZERO DROP TEST

• Place the shoe on a flat surface
• Look from the side—the heel and toe should be the same height
• Even a small heel elevation (2-4mm) can affect the way your body moves

4. FLAT - THE TOE SPRING TEST

• Place the shoe on a flat surface
• Check if the toe area lifts off the ground
• A natural shoe should lie completely flat

(In the above image, the shoe has a toe spring.)

4. FLEXIBILITY TEST

• Hold the shoe and try to fold it—it should bend easily at all points of the sole
• Twist it like wringing out a towel—natural shoes will twist
• If it feels stiff throughout or in some areas more than others, keep looking

5. FEEL SENSATION TEST

Try walking with one foot in the shoe and one foot barefoot. If you can still sense the ground’s texture and contour, the sole is thin enough to provide true ground feel.

CHOOSING YOUR FIRST NATURAL SHOES

There are a few things to consider when picking a pair:

• What is their purpose? Daily wear, exercise, work, or special occasions?
• How long will you wear them for? Start with shorter periods and build up
• What shoes were you wearing before? The bigger the change, the slower your transition should be

WORKING WITHIN THE CONTINUUM

If this is your first venture into the world of natural footwear, a transition shoe can be helpful—something that moves you closer to barefoot without making a dramatic leap.

Remember the sliding scale: you don't have to go from high heels to completely minimal shoes overnight. Each step toward more natural footwear is progress.

For more information on transitioning, check out our blog: How to Transition to Natural Footwear (Barefoot Shoes) Safely and Successfully.

Or our video where I, TFC’s Podiatrist, give tips on how to Avoid Injury When Switching to Barefoot Shoes

FINDING SHOES YOU'LL ACTUALLY WEAR

It seems like obvious advice, but if you're going to commit to buying a new pair of shoes, you also need to make sure you choose something you will actually want to wear.

Fortunately, there are now a huge range of 'barefoot' shoe brands to suit almost anyone's style and budget—from professional dress shoes to athletic trainers and hiking boots to funky casual everyday wear.

Looking for trusted brands? Check out our Footwear Finder for links to our favourite, trusted brands plus special discounts.

READY TO STRENGTHEN YOUR FEET?

Finding good shoes is half the story. The other half? Training your feet to use them properly. Here at The Foot Collective, we provide powerful education paired with fun tools to support you on your journey.

We invite you to start here:

"Your feet are the foundation of your body. Treat them well, and everything above them works better."